Last updated: June 2026
Fes is the most intense city in Morocco. It’s also the one most people get wrong - either they spend three days there when two would do, or they burn half a day on overhyped attractions and miss the ones that actually matter. This is the honest version: what to prioritise, what is genuinely worth the money, and what you can skip.
I’ve been to Fes six times since 2017 - twice solo, once with my sister, once on a group tour, and twice while we were running back-to-back Morocco trips with Explora Morocco tours. I’ve seen it in August heat and January drizzle. This list reflects what held up across all of those visits.
Full context on planning your time: Fes Travel Guide.
The Two Medersas: Bou Inania and Al-Attarine
These are the two non-Muslim visitors are actually allowed to enter, and they’re both genuinely extraordinary. Skip either one would be a mistake.
Bou Inania Medersa is the bigger of the two, built in the 14th century by Sultan Abu Inan. The entrance is 20 dirhams (around €2). It’s one of the rare religious buildings in Morocco where non-Muslims can walk in - the courtyard opens straight into a wall of carved cedar, stucco work, and zellij tilework that goes floor-to-ceiling. It’s calmer in the morning before the tour groups arrive, and closed during prayer times, so check before you go. Worth 45 minutes.
Al-Attarine Medersa sits right next to the Al-Qarawiyyin mosque - another 20 dirhams. It’s smaller but arguably more refined. The detail in the plasterwork is exceptional, and because it’s tucked away from the main drag it gets slightly fewer visitors than Bou Inania. Go to both if you can; together they take under two hours and cost you 40 dirhams.
See more on the medina itself: Fes Medina Guide.
Al-Qarawiyyin: The World’s Oldest University
This one requires a clear-eyed expectation: if you’re not Muslim, you cannot enter the mosque. That’s just how it is. The mosque is still active and non-Muslims are not admitted to the prayer hall.
What you can do is stand at the carved wooden doorways and look in. The tilework and archways visible from the entrance are stunning even from outside. The library - restored and opened to scholars in 2016 - is separate and accessible. For most visitors, the Al-Qarawiyyin is a moment of appreciation from the doorway rather than an interior visit, and that’s fine. It’s still worth walking there, because the surrounding lanes are some of the most atmospheric in the medina.
Chouara Tanneries: Still Worth It, But Go Early
The Chouara tanneries are the most photographed thing in Fes, and yes, they still deliver. The vats of colour, the workers, the smell, the scale of it - it’s one of those views that genuinely stops you. But you need to manage the experience properly or it becomes a hassle.
The tanneries are viewed from the terraces of leather shops above. Almost every shop along Derb Chouara offers free terrace access in exchange for you walking through their shop. You are not obligated to buy anything. A tip of 20-50 dirhams is fair if you’ve had a good view.
Go between 10am and 2pm when the workers are active and the dye colours are richest. Go early in the morning and half the vats will be empty. The smell is real - worse in summer - but the mint sprigs offered at the shop entrances do take the edge off slightly.
The leather prices in these shops are negotiable but they start high. Start at roughly half what they quote and be prepared to walk. Full breakdown of the visit: Fes Tanneries Guide.
Nejjarine Museum and the Fountain Square
The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts is housed in an 18th century caravanserai - three floors of carved wooden objects, instruments, doors, and tools, with a rooftop terrace looking out over the medina. Entrance is around 30 dirhams. The collection itself is interesting without being revelatory, but the building is exceptional and the rooftop is one of the better spots in Fes for a quiet tea with a view. Worth an hour.
Just as good is stopping at the Nejjarine fountain square itself. It’s one of the most photogenic corners in the medina - an ornate tiled fountain surrounded by wooden workshop fronts - and doesn’t cost you anything.
The Mellah and the Royal Palace Doors
The Mellah is Fes’s historic Jewish quarter, and it’s quieter and less visited than Fes el-Bali. Walking through it gives you a different texture - taller buildings, wrought iron balconies, a more urban feel. The Ibn Danan Synagogue is worth a look if it’s open.
The Royal Palace doors (Dar el-Makhzen) are the thing most people come for. Seven sets of enormous brass-studded golden doors. You can’t go inside - it’s the royal residence - but the ceremonial gate is one of the grandest things in Morocco and takes two minutes to see. Worth the short detour.
Borj Nord and the Marinid Tombs: The View People Miss
Most people in Fes never make it up here, which is exactly why you should. Borj Nord is a 16th century Portuguese-era fort on the hill above the medina, now housing a weapons museum (entrance around 20 dirhams). The museum itself is niche - mostly old cannons and armour - but fine.
What you’re really going for is the view of Fes el-Bali from above. The Marinid Tombs, a short walk along the ridge, are atmospheric ruins and the panorama from there across the whole medina is the best in the city. Go at dusk if you can. This is consistently the thing first-time visitors wish they’d known about. It’s not in most brochures. Factor in 30-40 minutes and get yourself up there.
The Souks: How to Actually Enjoy Them
Fes’s souks are organised by trade - the leather area, the spice area, the brass workers, the weavers. Walking through them with no agenda is one of the best things you can do in Morocco. You don’t need a guide for the souks, though a guide helps enormously with the rest of the medina.
Things to know: the carpet shops will try hard to get you through the door. The spice vendors will quote prices that have nothing to do with local prices. The pottery and zellij workshops are genuine - you can watch craftsmen at work and buy directly. Prices in workshops are usually more reasonable than in the souk stalls. A pottery or zellij cooperative is genuinely worth visiting both for what you can see being made and for fairer prices on what you might want to buy.
Practical advice: carry cash in small denominations, agree a price before anything changes hands, and remember that walking away almost always results in a lower offer.
Jnan Sbil Gardens: When You Need to Decompress
The medina is relentless. Jnan Sbil (also called Bou Jeloud Gardens) is the city’s main public park and it’s large, shaded, and almost entirely tourist-free. It’s free to enter. Go here mid-afternoon if your senses need a reset - locals come here with their families, kids are running around, and there are benches under trees. It won’t make your highlight reel but it might save your sanity on day two.
Food in Fes: What to Eat and Where
Fes has some of the best food in Morocco. The local speciality is pastilla - a flaky pie of pigeon (or chicken), egg, almonds, and cinnamon dusted with sugar. It sounds wrong. It’s outstanding.
Street food to prioritise: bissara (fava bean soup with olive oil and cumin) from one of the stalls near Bab Bou Jeloud, sold from huge pots in the morning for a few dirhams a bowl. It’s the breakfast of choice for locals and it costs almost nothing.
Sit-down food: the tourist restaurants around Bab Bou Jeloud are fine but not exceptional. Walk further into the medina for better options. Lunch rather than dinner is often better value in the medina. A cooking class is well worth considering if you have a spare afternoon - you learn the spice logic behind Moroccan cooking and eat well. Full food breakdown: Fes Food Guide.
And if you want a structured day that takes in all of this without the navigation stress, our Fes day tours and longer itineraries are worth a look. We run small groups and the guides are from Fes - they know which terrace has the best tannery angle and which stalls are actually good value.
How Much Time Do You Need?
Two full days is enough for the highlights without rushing. Three days is comfortable and lets you go slower, eat better, and find the quieter moments. Most people benefit from a guide for at least half a day - not because you can’t navigate alone, but because the medina’s context is much richer when someone explains what you’re looking at. Our 2-day Fes itinerary covers the sequencing in detail.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can non-Muslims enter the Al-Qarawiyyin mosque in Fes?
No. The Al-Qarawiyyin mosque is still an active place of worship and non-Muslims are not permitted to enter the prayer hall. You can view the interior from the carved doorways, and the library (separate from the mosque itself) has been open to visitors since 2016. The surrounding area is worth exploring regardless.
How much does it cost to visit the medersas in Fes?
Both Bou Inania and Al-Attarine medersas charge 20 dirhams each (roughly €2). That’s 40 dirhams total for both, which is exceptional value given the quality of what you’re seeing. They’re open most days but close during prayer times - morning visits are usually the most reliable.
Do you have to buy leather at the tanneries in Fes?
No. The leather shops that offer terrace access to view the tanneries will walk you through their merchandise, but there’s no obligation to buy. A small tip - 20 to 50 dirhams - is reasonable for a good view. If you do want to buy leather, prices are negotiable; starting at half the asking price is standard.
Is a guide necessary for Fes?
Not strictly necessary, but Fes el-Bali is genuinely one of the most disorienting places in Morocco. A guide for at least one half-day saves you hours of wrong turns and adds real historical context. If you’re doing it alone, download an offline map before you enter the medina and identify a few landmark references - Bab Bou Jeloud (the main gate) and the Chouara tanneries area are useful anchor points.
What should I skip in Fes?
The Borj Sud (south fort) has far less to offer than Borj Nord and isn’t worth the climb. Most of the “authentic” Berber carpet demonstrations near Bab Bou Jeloud are scripted sales pitches. The tourist restaurants immediately outside the gate are usually overpriced for the quality - walk five minutes into the medina for better value.
What is the best time of day to visit the Chouara tanneries?
Between 10am and 2pm is when the workers are most active and the dye colours are most vivid. Very early morning (before 9:30am) often means quieter vats and less to see. Avoid Friday afternoons when access can be more restricted.
